Days Eleven and Twelve: Capri
In a hurry since Capri’s Internet is even worse a situation than Rome’s, but here’s the stories from the past two days.
On Sunday Jamie and I wokeup early to take our train to Napoli. We were very nervous about the transfers we’d have to make to get to Capri.. Walk to the train, get on the train, get off the train, find a taxi, go to the ferry station, acquire ferry tickets, get on the boat, off the boat, then find another taxi to get us to the hotel. All of that worrying was for nothing. Of course the Italians took care of us! The train was super-simple, probably thanks to my experience understanding how trains in Italy work. The only annoying part was the loud obnoxious Americans sitting all around us. Yet again we understand why so many people hate Americans. They’re loud, they don’t try to understand or respect the people or culture or language.. Ugh. Very bad!
When we arrived in Napoli we went to the taxi queue and waited.. At the front of the line there was a guy shuffling everyone into cars.. When we stepped up, he says to us, “You two come with me!” He was waiting through the line to take the two blonde girls on a ride. Typical - and much appreciated.
He was super nice - a crazy driver, of course, as all men from Napoli are from my experience - and got us to Molo Beverello for the ferry very quickly. We arrived just two minutes before the quick ferry was to leave so he acquired a porter to take our bags and he and I ran to get tickets last minute. We made it on very quickly and relaxed, or rather basked, in the sun on top for the 40 minute ride from Napoli to Capri. We got off and unexpectedly found a driver waiting for us. We didn’t have to get a taxi - they took our bags and we were on our way to the top - Anacapri!
We arrived and the hotel, Caesar Augustus, and were given a quick tour of the facilities, the amazing panoramic views over the Bay of Naples and then shown to our suite. We have a huge terrace overlooking everything - it’s spectacular.
First stop was the infinity pool that we’ve seen so often in pictures. We grabbed our books and bikinis, parked ourselves under umbrellas and totally soaked up the good life.
After, we got cleaned up, order a bottle of wine and some cheese and sat outside enjoying the view. Then we were off to get a drink by the piano bar and on the terrace before our dinner reservation.
Of course, as fate would have it, we met some party playboys (so we’re guessing) who bought us drinks and invited us to dinner with them. (They are from California - well two were, one was from Melbourne, Australia.) We cancelled our reservation and went with them to La Capininna. First we have aperitivos, then one of the best Italian meals I’ve ever had. The best mozzarella yet on this trip - Perfectly crisp fiori di zucca - Jamie had her favorite bruschetta. The main course for me was eggplant parmesan - something I always hated until my last trip to Rome when I was sort of forced to try it. The Italians really do that well - and I don’t even like eggplant!
After dinner we drank more and returned to the hotel to look at the amazing moon lighting up the entire bay. This is absolutely, definitely one of the most beautiful places in the world!
Oh yes, and I almost forgot! Last night we saw Robin Leach staying at our hotel! You know you’re doing something right when you are staying at the same place as “Mr. Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous” himself!
After a late night, we woke up for breakfast before our private boat tour of Capri. We took our shuttle down to Marina Grande and met our captain, Giovanni. Got on his boat and he took us all around the island on a three hour tour. (No, we didn’t see Gilligan!) So many magnificent grottos with the greatest purple and orange coral! When we got to the Grotto Verde (Green Grotto) Giovanni let us jump off and swim through it. That was the best part! Jumping off and swimming through a grotto at capri! We couldn’t wipe the smiles off our faces. So fantastic!
Our tour continued.. Seeing many other grottos and historical monuments and amazing sides of the island. Finally we go to the Grotto Azurra (the infamous Blue Grotto) and we got to go inside. Last time I was here, I waited for almost an hour and the water was too rocky for us to go in. This time - just perfect! Imagining the Romans two-thousand years ago swimming in that grotto was amazing. We saw one set of tourists jump in and we were very jealous.. It is not allowed, but we really wanted to do it!
After our tour we returned for lunch.. which is very hard to accomplish at 3pm in the Italian world. Finally we found paninos in the village of Anacapri, just 50 metres from our hotel, and returned to also order wine and have more mozzarella di bufala.
Now we’re off to our postponed hotel dinner. We have to get up early tomorrow for our flight back to Paris. It is so sad to leave Italy! I could stay here forever!